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Klub Književnika by Branko Kisic

• Francuska 7, Belgrade, 11000, Serbia
• €€ · Balkan, Traditional Cuisine

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Michelin guide’s point of view.

The young chef at this long-established restaurant popular with locals and tourists alike has been at the helm since 2019. Here, guests can choose to eat in a winter garden or in the dining room, where there’s often live music during the colder months. The menu features classic favourites, such as the Krempita dessert which has been served here since the restaurant opened in 1946, and traditional Serbian specialities (there’s a 25-minute wait for the savoury Gibanica dish), with the occasional interesting, personalised touch and a focus on careful presentation.  

Facilities & Services

• Air conditioning

Credit cards accepted

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Klub književnika

A local attraction - Skadarlija , that is situated near this restaurant, is a part of the original culture of the city. Taste something new from the French cuisine. Take a break and eat nicely cooked soup , salads and fillet steaks . Tasty cremeschnitte and good parfait are the tastiest dishes.

The wine list is extensive, it can satisfy the needs of all visitors. Most likely, you'll return to Klub Književnika by Branko Kisic later to order delicious coffee . Many reviewers consider the staff knowledgeable. Service at this place is something one can name terrific. You will pay adequate prices for your meal. There is an exotic ambiance and nice decor at this spot. Michelin inspectors have visited this restaurant, so it has received the Michelin selection award.

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Frequently mentioned in reviews, michelin guide rating.

The young chef at this long-established restaurant popular with locals and tourists alike has been at the helm since 2019. Here, guests can choose to eat in a winter garden or in the dining room, where there’s often live music during the colder months... More info

Ratings of Klub književnika

Visitors' opinions on klub književnika.

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Restaurant features in Belgrade

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JAZZ Warm-up: Vasil Hažimanov Piano Trio in the Writers’ Club (Klub književnika)

November 8 / 21.30 pm / Writers’ Club (Klub književnika)

Our most famous composer, keyboardist and music arranger – Vasil Hadžimanov opens a new concert season of the oldest jazz club in the city – Writers’ Club (Klub književnika).

Vasil Hadžimanov is classified as the most productive and most promising jazz musician in the former Yugoslavia, with seven albums published, numerous performances in the country and the region, and gigs on all local, regional and international jazz, world music events and festivals.

This time, at the Writers’ Club, Vasil decided to present his Piano Trio – besides him on the piano, we will have an exclusive opportunity to hear Milan Nikolić on the contrabass, then Paja Milutinović on the drum, and a special guest on the trumpet – a great artist Strahinja Banović, while the main vocal will be Marta Hadžimanov.

Since 1946 the Writers’ Club (Klub književnika) has the status of a cult restaurant. This is the place where Ivo Andric gave his first statement after receiving the Nobel Prize, the place where you could see legends of philosophy like Simon de Bovoar, Jean Paul Sartre and world famous actress Sophia Loren. Danilo Kish and Momo Kapor regularly attended, and on the menu, besides excellent food, there were always intellectual debates.

Although Belgrade and the Writers’ Club have inevitably changed since then, some things have remained the same – for example, the first jazz club in Belgrade was at the address of 7 Francuska St. and this tradition is still alive today. Every Friday the Writers’ Club organizes fantastic jazz evenings, acoustic concerts and live performances by domestic and foreign artists. Especially for this occasion, the Autumn Menu is introduced, which is based on a mixture of well-known specialties and new seasonal dishes.

Vasil Hadzimanov Trio Live, in the intimate ambience of the Writers’ Club, is a true jazz experience that you shouldn’t miss!

Writer. Blogger. Traveler. Researcher. Electronic Music Lover.

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Really fun experience, great to get the story behind the city from a different perspective. Highly recommended!

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How to explore the secret subterranean side of Belgrade

Head underground to discover millennia of history layered beneath the Serbian capital.

Control of Serbia and its storied capital has shifted between Eastern Europe’s dominant powers for millennia. Over the years of foreign domination and rule change, Belgrade became a layered city, with each new leader building on top of the last. The Romans fortified a Celtic fortress; the Austro-Hungarians rebuilt it into a citadel; the Ottomans added spindling minarets to the skyline, later juxtaposed by Yugoslavia’s brutalist style. Take an often-subterranean walking tour of the city’s historic centre to glimpse its different iterations, from the sturdy walls of antiquity to Cold War spy cellars.

1. Tasmajdan Caves

Belgrade’s foundations stand above a network of prehistoric caves — some of the scattered shells found within them date back up to eight million years. These cavernous spaces have housed a Roman aqueduct system and   military tunnels; more recently, they served as Second World War bunkers for Nazi occupiers. Enter the network from Tasmajdan Park and explore a section used by German soldiers escaping Belgrade’s liberation in 1944.

2. Roman Castrum  

Continue to the site of a second-century castrum (fort). During the city’s Roman era, a frontline legion was stationed here to defend the city (then known as Singidunum) against impending forces from the east. Traces of the garrison are minimal today, but you can still find evidence of the monumental gate that once stood at its entrance: keep a close look out for its stone foundations at the intersection of the city’s Knez Mihailova and Pariska streets.  

3. Klub Knjizevnika

Take a break from the underworld to lunch at one of Belgrade’s most storied restaurants. In its 70-year history, Klub Knjizevnika (‘The Writers’ Club’) has hosted stars including Sophia Loren and Richard Burton, as well as some of the region’s most acclaimed literary figures — it was here that author Ivo Andrić celebrated his 1961 Nobel Prize in Literature. Tuck into rich servings of pork alongside savoury beignets (deep-fried dough).  

4. Belgrade Fortress  

Back on Pariska street, Belgrade Fortress — a more modern iteration of the castrum — is a treasure trove for history-lovers. Inside, an underground space once used as a gunpowder warehouse   now holds Roman and Byzantine antiquities; the sculptures and sarcophagi were excavated from beneath the city. Moving on, there’s a Roman Well — used, according to legend, as a place to abandon prisoners — and a bunker used by Cold War leader Josip Tito.

5. Galerija Stab

Take a short walk along the Sava River to the hip Savamala neighbourhood. Here, the Galerija Stab art gallery is located within the eastern arches of Brankov Bridge and features a subterranean passage leading out of the gallery’s main hall. On display are some of the city’s best contemporary works, astutely juxtaposing young Serbian creativity with the history of the space that surrounds them.  

6. Panajotovic wine cellar

This family-run establishment has been serving wine below street level for 90 years, persevering through the strictures of the Communist era. Wall-mounted candles flicker in the arched interior, casting a low light over wooden furniture and barrels full of wine. Book a tour and a tasting, settling in for a glass of Traminac in the atmospheric cellar.

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• ANCIENT ROME

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• CHEF BRANKO KISIĆ
• SUPPLIERS AND PRODUCTS
• MENU À LA CARTE
• SUNDAY LUNCH
• SPECIAL OFFERS

Our and world specialties

Gastronomy & Tradition

Unique Serbian tastes

The new gastronomic offer of the Klub Književnika represents a careful selection and combination of Serbian and French cuisine.

The main features of the Club’s menu are quality food, mostly of local origin and the unique cooking style of Branko Kisić.

Branko Kisić is someone who has been building a very successful culinary career for years and who was in charge of the restaurant menus of the most prestigious hotels in the region. He is determined to bring old guests of the Club into a new era, introduce a new generation of restaurant-goers to the new Klub Književnika, and write a new chapter in the history of the Club and the city.

Enjoy our gastronomy and selected wines

Restaurant & Bar

seasonal and traditional foods and dishes we give the world’s DNA.

of the finest local wines … and something from the world.

Sunday lunch

Specialties.

Tradition and innovation absolutely integrated.

Business lunch

Real jobs are traditionally done with good food!

A combination of local dishes, from indigenous ingredients and traditional offerings

Our selection local wines… and something from the world.

Fresh, tasty and light, with every meal.

Proven local and world classics.

“ The most beautiful garden in the very center of Belgrade city. Historically famous eatery hired… ”

Artur Demek

21 Best Restaurants in Belgrade: Where to Eat (& Belgrade Food to Try!)

Serbia’s cuisine and culture has been marked by all the empires who have come and gone over this ancient land. As a result, you’ll find that Serbian cuisine is a delicious fusion of Turkish, Austro-Hungarian, and Mediterranean cuisines.

With their unique taste and affordable prices, Belgrade restaurants will seduce you with their lively spirit and unique taste.

Here you can find everything, from high-class gourmet restaurants all the way to edgy bars. On the menu of almost every good restaurant in Belgrade, you will find not just traditional Serbian dishes but a lot of other choices from around the world.

Embark on a journey with us to explore Serbian cuisine through 21 delicious Belgrade restaurants!

RESTAURANT MALA GOSTIONICA (LITTLE INN)

If you want to taste and enjoy a true Serbian feast, Mala Gostionica is just the right place for you.

Here you can create your own breakfast plate by ordering more small bites – eggs,  ajvar , uštipci (fried dough), prosciutto, kajmak , etc.

With small wooden tables and checkered table cloths (the trademark of traditional Serbian taverns), this warm and lovely place is located near Knez Mihailova Street in the heart of Belgrade

Address: Dobračina 6, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT MALA FABRIKA UKUSA (LITTLE TASTE FACTORY)

Mala Fabrika Ukusa is a family restaurant that also serves traditional Serbian dishes but with a little twist.

Here, in a vintage ambiance (kind of like grandma’s cottage), among wooden tables and shelves, visitors can enjoy popara – an almost forgotten dish that used to be the only thing that was eaten at breakfast in Serbia.

The big garden hidden in the shade of trees gives a special charm to this place, and it’s an excellent place to enjoy a meal in the summer.

Address: Nebojšina 49, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT ID

Located in the greenery of Karađorđe Park , ID restaurant is an authentic combination of modern and classic.

With its urban ambience and interesting dishes, it is ideal for having a relaxing breakfast, a lunch with famil, or evening amusement with friends. Here you can enjoy authentic Serbian dishes spiced with a modern twist.  

As Sigmund Freud said “Id is the personality component made up of unconscious psychic energy that works to satisfy basic urges, needs, and desires”… so, ID restaurant will for sure satisfy all your needs and desires!

Address: Nebojšina 6, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT TABOR

If you want to taste some true Serbian cuisine, hearty meals and traditional dishes, the famous restaurant Tabor is an excellent choice.

This is the place where you can enjoy and celebrate every little moment of your life. With its cozy atmosphere, pleasant ambiance, and beautiful music, Restaurant Tabor will make your day.

The famous Serbian writer Momo Kapor said about this restaurant: “Tabor has become a kind of temple or a gastronomic museum, where it is possible to present a shortened history of national cuisine during a single night to a guest or a stranger.”

Address: Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 348, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT REMIX GASTRO BAR

A stone’s throw from the city center, you will find a modern and elegant restaurant with luxurious and diverse dishes.

Remix Gastro Bar is a modern restaurant with a mix of everything – national specialties, but also a large number of international dishes. It also has great nightlife with wonderful music. In addition, here you can enjoy the most beautiful view of the river and the famous Belgrade Waterfront!

Address: Karađorđeva 46, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT MALI PIJAC (SMALL MARKET)

Just a few strides from Remix Gastro Bar, you will find something different. Set in an old furniture store, Mali Pijac is a cozy place that feels very Parisian.

It offers both innovative and traditional dishes, so you can enjoy some new flavors or some classics. The interior is urban, striking, and modern: great for photos!

Address: Karađorđeva 61, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT CANTINA DE FRIDA

Situated in the famous Beton Hala , with a magical view of the Sava River, Ušće, and New Belgrade, this modern restaurant will satisfy all your senses.

The old wooden floor, painted brick, high ceiling, and artistic chandeliers make this place warm, peaceful and full of life.

Famous Mexican artist Frida Kahlo was the inspiration for this restaurant… so, here everything is in homage to the spirit of one and only Frida!

Address: Karađotđeva 2-4, Beton Hala, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT LAVASH

Near the other restaurants in Belgrade’s Beton Hala area, you will find Lavash, which serves an interesting mix of Balkan and Middle Eastern cuisine.

Restaurant Lavash offers a magical combination of tradition spiced up with some flavors from the East.

Its cozy atmosphere, lovely bookcases, and friendly staff will make you feel at home, but at the same time, their unique dishes will take you to distant lands!

RESTAURANT KLUB KNIŽEVNIKA (WRITERS’ CLUB)

For over seventy years, this place has been home to many novelists, artists and intellectual elite (Richard Burton, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, and many others visited this charming restaurant).

Klub Književnika is a Belgrade restaurant filled with love and hope, serving up traditional dishes and a friendly atmosphere. With its long history and its setting for several legendary love stories, it is for sure a place you have to visit in Belgrade’s restaurant scene!

Address: Francuska 7, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT MEZESTORAN DVORIŠTE

When you want to feel like you’re summering in Santorini, this charming Belgrade restaurant will take you there!

Mezestoran Dvorište is a small corner of Mediterranean in Belgrade. This hidden gem is tucked away between old Belgrade buildings right in the city center, but away from the noise and city bustle.

The restaurant is warm and peaceful with a wooden interior and charming garden. Here, everything is fresh, delicious, and full of Mediterranean charm and hospitality.

Address: Svetogorska 46, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT HOMA BISTROT

Homa Bistrot is the younger brother of the most popular fine dining restaurant in the city, restaurant Homa.

In the spacious, contemporary atmosphere of this restaurant, you can enjoy local cuisine with a twist of delicious flavors from all over the world.

On the menu you can find almost anything and everything – from yummy burgers to healthy salads and creative twists on just about everything.

Address: Nevesinjska 11, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT DŽUMBUS

Restaurant Džumbus is a quaint venue situated on the bank of the Danube. This is a great meeting place where you can enjoy traditional Serbian dishes, colorful salads, and delicious desserts.

The interior is unique, modern and spacious. In addition, the restaurant also includes a large children’s playroom, so parents can relax and enjoy without worry – making it one of the more kid-friendly restaurants in Belgrade.

Address: Tadeuša Košćuška 63, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT USTANIČKA

With its warm terrace and friendly atmosphere, Restaurant Ustanička is the right place for everyone who wants to relax after a long day of sightseeing.

This modern restaurant offers visitors a great atmosphere, tasty food, a varied range of drinks — all with a relaxing atmosphere. When the sun is shining, you can sit on this spacious green terrace and enjoy your coffee or some delicious dessert.

Address: Ustanička 66, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT 5A SOBA

Peta Soba (The Fifth Room) is a mix and match of everything – tradition, urban, modern, vintage, artistic, sweet, savory…

Nestled in the heart of the city, it offers you a true fusion of flavors. With its modern ambiance, charming wooden tables, vibrant chandeliers, and calm lounge area, visitors can find some of the best wines from famous wineries in the region.

Address: Rajićeva 12, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT HARI’S CREPERIE

Hari’s Creperie is an airy and bright place, with cozy sofas and beautiful art.

With a friendly atmosphere, you can enjoy homemade sweet and savory treats, but most of all you can try the most delicious waffles and pancakes!

In addition to all this, here you can find two playrooms – indoors and outdoors, for the youngest members of your family.

Address : Antifašističke borbe 23d, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT POMODORO NUOVO

Try the taste of Italy in the heart of New Belgrade! If you like the smell of freshly baked pizza or you just craving some Italian food, Pomodoro Nuovo is the right place for you.

Its delicatessen concept is based on the traditional Italian cuisine – pizzas, pastas, and other dishes with unique Italian flavors.

Address: Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 115, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

EMILY GARDEN BAR AND RESTAURANT

Emily Garden is a bright, spacious place with vibrant sofas where you can relax and hang out with your friends.

This modern garden offers visitors a great atmosphere, yummy food, and a varied range of drinks. And when sun is shining, you can relax and enjoy delicious treats in their lovely garden.

Address: Vjekoslava Kovača 11, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT TAVERN & WINE BAR TATA MATA

The restaurant is situated in the post-war house of the famous Serbian actor and director, Mata Milošević.

As soon as you step on the wooden floor, you will notice the boat-shaped bar decorated with small lanterns and drawings of waves and shoal on the wall.

On the menu you will find various fish delicacies – octopus Carpaccio, tuna tartar, cod Bianco, Dalmatian Pašticada, Dalmatian brudet, etc. Tata Mata truly radiates the charm of the coast.

Address: Dalmatinska 98, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT LORENZO & KAKALAMBA

Lorenzo & Kakalamba is an eccentric little venue opened by Sanja, who has acquired her culinary knowledge from chefs from Florence, London and Amsterdam.

The interior is unique – like big circus full of stuff, housing remarkable objects – from goat witch to comic reproductions of the famous Florentine sculptures and fantastic paintings of the famous Colombian artist Botero.

Here you will feel as if you have fallen into a Wonderland – and your tastebuds will agree!

Address: Cvijićeva 110, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT DUOMO

Set in the popular part of the city, Dorćol, Restaurant Duomo brings the Italian spirit into Belgrade’s restaurant scene.

Here you can enjoy perfect Italian pizza prepared in a wood-fired stove, delicious pasta, and lovey risotto seasoned with true Italian flavor.

The place is warm and cozy with its wooden interior and eye-catching photos that are hanging everywhere. With its warm terrace and friendly atmosphere, it’s the right place for everyone who wants to relax after a long stroll through the city center.

Address: Strahinjića bana 66a, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

RESTAURANT SMOKVICA (FIG TREE) JOVANOVA

The mini-empire Smokvica has six trendy and unique restaurants around Belgrade.

Smokvica Jovanova is housed in a historical villa, designed by the first female Serbian architect, Jelisaveta Načić. This hidden gem is tucked away between the famous Kalemegdan (Belgrade Fortress and Park) and the bohemian Skadarlija district.

It’s a modern-rustic space where visitors can relax and enjoy tasty dishes made from produce from their own farm. And if you want to stay, you can rent a room and enjoy your breakfast on their lovely patio!

Address: Gospodar Jovanova 45a, 11 000 Belgrade, Serbia

5 Things You Shouldn’t Forget to Pack For Serbia

We have a full  Serbia packing list , but in case you just want the quick version, here are a few essentials you shouldn’t forget to pack!

A good guidebook:  While travel blogs are great, we still think a good guidebook is always handy.  Lonely Planet Western Balkans  is the main guidebook we recommend for Serbia, as it covers the country well plus others in the region.

Pacsafe Citysafe  or Other Anti-Theft Bag:  This is the bag both Stephanie and I use. It has a pouch with RFID technology so our credit cards can’t get scanned from afar, interlocking zippers to make it harder to pickpocket, and it’s roomy enough to be a perfect sightseeing day bag. If you’d rather bring something smaller, you can pack a  money belt  instead. 

We feel quite safe in Belgrade, which is not overly touristic and full of pickpockets, but we wear it and suggest it all the same.

Unlocked Cell Phone:  Stephanie and I both have unlocked cell phones that we bought in Europe (She uses a  Samsung  and I use an  iPhone ). This allows up to get sim cards when we travel so that we always have the internet. We wrote a guide to  picking up SIM cards in Serbia , as it’s really quite simple!

Being able to pick up a Serbian SIM card is a great way to stay in touch while on the road. If you don’t have an unlocked cell phone that can use a Serbian SIM card, you can buy a cheaper  unlocked phone online  and bring it with you!

Travel Insurance:  We recommend it for everywhere we go! We suggest World Nomads and go into more detail about why at the end of the post.

Where to Stay in Belgrade

Here are our top recommendations for where to stay in Belgrade. Generally, budget means hostel beds for around $10 a night and singles/doubles for around $30, mid-range is from about $40-100 per night, and luxury will cost over $100 per night.

Budget:  If you want a cozy feeling hostel,  Hostel Home Sweet Home  in the Savamala neighborhood of Belgrade is a fantastic choice. Its central location close to Knez Mihailova Street and other Belgrade must-sees makes staying here ultra-convenient. It’s sunny and open, with options for dorm rooms as well as affordable single and double rooms for travelers who want a little more privacy without paying a fortune. It’s one of the best-rated options in town, so we recommend you  check out availability and book in advance here .

Mid-Range:  If you want a more traditional accommodation option, we recommend the affordable four-star  Zepter Hotel  on Terazije, one of our favorite streets in all of Belgrade. It has all the amenities you’d expect from a 4-star hotel, like a gym room, in-room coffee machine, and a fantastic daily breakfast. Rooms sell out often, so  check out availability and book in advance .

Luxury:  We’d be remiss if we didn’t suggest the classic luxury option in Belgrade,  Hotel Moskva – one of our favorite buildings in the city and a classic haunt of famous politicians, musicians, actors, and other celebrities who pass through Belgrade. It’s also surprisingly affordable for its caliber! With a renowned spa, delicious restaurant, and beautifully designed rooms, it’s one of our favorite places in Belgrade and the location is unbeatable. However, it’s almost always sold out, so be sure to  check availability and book well in advance  and hope you get lucky!

Still looking? Check out our full guide to  Belgrade Hotels and Hostels.

More Belgrade Travel Resources

For activities in Belgrade, check out our guide for  things to do in Belgrade,  the most  Instagrammable spots in Belgrade , and the best  Belgrade street art. We also have a guide to Belgrade nightlife !

If you only have one day, check out our  Belgrade itinerary for 24 hours  in the city. Have more time? Here are eleven great  Belgrade tours  to pick from – just keep in mind that all might not be available in the winter months!

If you want to get out of the city for a day, here are our guide to  Belgrade day trips  and what you should know before  renting a car in Serbia.  We also have lists of our favorite  places to visit in Serbia  and the  best Serbian towns and cities  if you need more day trip inspiration. 

We also have a  Serbian souvenir guide  if you want to do some shopping.

For country planning, check out our guide to  planning a trip to Serbia  and  Serbia travel advice. 

We have tons more Serbia and Balkans resources, and we publish new content nearly daily. Bookmark our  Serbia  and  Balkans  travel pages so you can find any new resources that come out before your trip!

Headed to Belgrade? Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

If you’re planning a trip to Belgrade, it’s a good idea to travel with a valid  travel insurance  policy, so that you will be covered in case of an emergency. Travel insurance covers you in case of theft or an accident, which can save your trip if there’s an incident, cancellation, or trip interruption.

For travel insurance, I use  World Nomads .  I’ve been a happy customer of theirs for almost three years, and I’m happy to refer them to anyone I meet.

Get a travel insurance quote for your trip here.

Pin This Guide to Belgrade Restaurants Here!

Born and raised in Serbia, Ana learned how to fight for her dreams. After finishing her Masters studies in Technical Science, she received an award and her science project “Advertising in the old Serbian press” was published. In 2015, she followed her heart and started a new life in Brussels. Her passion for travel started very early, when her parents took her to the Greek islands. From then on, she traveled through Europe and America. She loves to dance and enjoys cooking

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The 10 Best Restaurants In Old Town, Belgrade

We present you the guide to the 10 best restaurants in the belgrade old town, from traditional serbian food to modern asian fusion..

Belgrade ’s Old Town is a picturesque area, situated around the city’s symbolic Kalemegdan Fortress . Enjoy the rich history of the area and observe how old and modern interact. Here you can taste meat and fish specialities of Serbian, Italian , Lebanese and Asian cuisine. Read on to discover where you can try the best local food and enjoy stunning views.

Bella Vista

Next to the Sava river, under Kalemegdan fortress and park, you will find Bella Vista . Brick walls and wooden interior create a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for enjoying the international food specialities on offer. Sit on the terrace overlooking the river for the most enjoyable experience. Try the European seabass prepared Dalmatian-style or lamb fleftiko, with sun dried tomatoes, feta cheese and vegetables. Every Friday and Saturday you can listen to live music, best accompanied by one of their colorful cocktails. Bella Vista, Karadjordjeva 2-4, Savsko pristanište, Belgrade, Serbia, +381 11 263 29 57

Beton Hala or Concrete Hall is an area at the port of river Sava in the old town of Belgrade, where you’ll find quite a lot of trendy restaurants and cafés. Comunale is one of them. Founder Aleksandar Rodić created an exciting and trendy space with clear design and big wooden tables and benches. As the name suggests, the idea is to encourage community gatherings or group interactions, while enjoying delicious meals. The restaurant serves Italian food. Look out for their homemade pasta and gnocchi dishes. Comunale, Karadjordjeva 2-4, Beton hala, Beograd, Serbia,

Writers' Club

The former haunt of local literati and the visiting elite (think Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre), this dignified spot is still a favourite for substantial steaks, chops and meal-sized salads.

Francuska 7

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Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Belgrade Fortress

Some 115 battles have been fought over imposing, impressive Belgrade Fortress (aka Kalemegdan); the citadel was destroyed more than 40 times throughout…

Museum of Yugoslavia

This must-visit museum houses an invaluable collection of more than 200,000 artefacts representing the fascinating, tumultuous history of Yugoslavia…

Looming over Belgrade and topped with the tallest tower in the Balkans (204.5m), Mt Avala is a city landmark that makes for a pleasant break from the…

Museum of Contemporary Art

One of Belgrade's top cultural sights, this recently renovated museum is a treasure trove of 20th-century art from the ex-Yugoslav cultural space. The…

Marshal Tito's Mausoleum

A visit to Tito's mausoleum is obligatory. The big man rests in an aptly gigantic tomb in peaceful surrounds. Also on display are thousands of elaborate…

National Museum

Lack of funding for renovations kept Serbia's National Museum mostly shuttered for 15 years, but its much ballyhooed 2018 reopening has been a great…

Nikola Tesla Museum

Meet the man on the 100RSD note at one of Belgrade's best museums, where you can release your inner nerd with some wondrously sci-fi-ish interactive…

Zepter Museum

This impressive collection of works by contemporary Serbian artists became Serbia’s first private museum in 2010, but remains somewhat hidden even though…

Nearby Belgrade attractions

1 . National Museum

2 . Museum of Illusions

This 2018 newcomer is a delight for the kiddos. Spread over two floors of hands-on, interactive illusions – explained in English, German and Spanish in…

3 . Museum of Science and Technology

The name may sound dry, but this is a marvellous place for visitors – especially families – to spend a couple of hours. This wonderful museum showcases…

4 . Zepter Museum

5 . Museum of Automobiles

This compelling collection of cars and motorcycles is located in Belgrade's first public garage, though it was opting for new digs near Staro Sajmište at…

6 . Museum of the Yugoslav Film Archive

This small but fascinating museum houses almost 80,000 films from the former Yugoslavia, as well as important works from across the world and tons of…

7 . Jewish Historical Museum

Housed in a 1928 neo-Romanesque building of the Jewish Community of Belgrade, the permanent exhibition of this museum opened in 1969 and covers the…

8 . Historical Museum of Serbia

Hosts temporary well-done exhibitions on Serbian history, usually surrounding events and/or personalities, over three gallery spaces.

• The 10 Best Restaurants In...

The 10 Best Restaurants In Old Town, Belgrade

Belgrade ’s Old Town is a picturesque area, situated around the city’s symbolic Kalemegdan Fortress . Enjoy the rich history of the area and observe how old and modern interact. Here you can taste meat and fish specialities of Serbian, Italian , Lebanese and Asian cuisine. Read on to discover where you can try the best local food and enjoy stunning views.

1. Dva Jelena

Restaurant, European, BBQ

2. Kalemegdanska Terasa

Restaurant, European, Healthy

3. Comunale

Restaurant, Cafe, Italian, Gluten-free, Vegan, Vegetarian

Beton Hala or Concrete Hall is an area at the port of river Sava in the old town of Belgrade, where you’ll find quite a lot of trendy restaurants and cafés. Comunale is one of them. Founder Aleksandar Rodić created an exciting and trendy space with clear design and big wooden tables and benches. As the name suggests, the idea is to encourage community gatherings or group interactions, while enjoying delicious meals. The restaurant serves Italian food. Look out for their homemade pasta and gnocchi dishes. Comunale, Karadjordjeva 2-4, Beton hala, Beograd, Serbia,

4. Restoran Vodenica

Restaurant, Seafood, European

5. Pire Slow Food

Restaurant, European

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Restaurant, Thai

7. Klub Književnika

Restaurant, Lebanese, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean

Restaurant, Japanese

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Writers from the 33 countries on the Belgrade International Meetings of Writers

Belgrade international meetings of writers begin today.

Belgrade International Meetings of Writers begins today, and the president of the  Association of Writers of Serbia , Radomir Andric , announced the arrival of 33 writers from Azerbaijan, Albania, Belarus, Bulgaria, Great Britain, Greece, Israel, Canada, Hungary, Macedonia, Germany, Republika Srpska, Romania, Russia, Slovakia, Turkey, Ukraine, France, Croatia, Montenegro and the Czech Republic.

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At yesterday's press conference, Andric also spoke about the Association of Writers of Serbia   efforts to re-establish closer co-operation with writers from neighboring countries, so, Belgrade's guest will be the poet Entela Kasi from Albania, as well as multiple writers from Hungary, whose poetry, according to Andric, is among the largest in Central Europe.

The homage to Charles Baudelaire will be organized this year on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the death of the "transformer poet who influenced the development of modern literature ". Also, some other anniversaries will be marked: the 125th anniversary of the birth of Milutin Bojic, the century of the death of Vladislav Petkovic Dis, and 450 years since the birth of the great Dubrovnik comedian Marina Drzic, 125 years since the birth of the Serbian Nobel Prize winner Ivo Andric, 250 years after the birth of a popular poet and gusle player Filip Visnjic and 25 years since the death of lucid prose writer Borislav Pekic.

"International Poetry meeting " will be organized during the sailing of Danube, and Andric announced that the Association of Writers of Serbia will organize the gathering of poets in Serbia who are devoted to the Danube. It is a project under the name "Great Mister Danube", by the poem of the same name by Vasko Popa, which was started together with the writers of Slovakia with the aim to unify the Danube countries. Those meetings are being held in Slovakia for two years, and Serbia will be host next year, said Andric.

The award "Chapter of Morava" was awarded to the poets Djodje Vultureska from Romania and Ljubisa Didic. Andric said that the award "Seal of Prince Lazar" is awarded to the Serbian-Canadian poet Ranko Radovic and Vlastimir Stanisavljevic Sarkamenac from Paris.

The official opening of the 54th Belgrade International Meetings will be tomorrow, and the day afterward, the Seventh International Assembly of Spiritual Poetry will be held in the port of the Rakovica Monastery. The meeting of writers begins with the arrival of participants from 22 countries on the premises of the Association of Writers of Serbia, and there will also be an evening of writers from Kosovo and Metohija on the first day. On Thursday and Friday, participants of the event will visit Cacak, Mrcajevci, Pozega, Cajetina, Sirogojno, Vrnjacka Banja, Aleksandrovac, Pozarevac, Malo Crnice, Indjija, Novi Sad, and the Collection of the Meeting will be presented on the 23rd September, on the last day.

( Telegraf.co.uk / Tanjug)

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Belgrade Writers: Tuesdays at Two

Belgrade’s ability to inspire creativity is no secret to the literary buff who has strolled along the Kalemegdan Fortress at sunset, or sipped rakija in a restaurant whose worn-down appearance was almost as pleasing as the strong beverage.

Tuesdays at Two, a new anthology of writing, may not be high art – but its 350 pages do contain many original insights into the city.

The book brings together 55 stories by 17 authors, including Serbs and foreigners who have lived in the capital. It showcases the efforts of the Belgrade Writers, a group created by Carol Kiernan, an ex-pat Irishwoman, who wanted to give her friends and acquaintances an opportunity to socialise over their writing.

Although the authors are not established, some of the material is very good. Each writer was required to locate at least one of their stories in Belgrade.

Mirjana Danilovic, who also writes guides to the Serbian language for foreign speakers, produces a particularly witty piece called Water Sport with Giovanni. She tells the story of being forced, at not the youngest of ages, to learn to water ski on Belgrade’s Ada Ciganlija lake.

While trying to escape from the situation, she falls for the womanising water-ski instructor, Djordje-Giovanni.

Her treatment of a middle-aged Serbian woman’s attitude to her own sexuality is hilarious. You will be reminded of this episode every time you pass by the Ada waterski centre or, indeed, the nearby forest.

Perhaps the best work in the anthology comes from Predrag Dragosavac, a journalist and feature writer – a genre perfectly suited to this anthology.

All three of his stories take place in Belgrade. In one, he describes how his Swedish fiancée brought home a stray dog. When it needed to be taken to Sweden, the animal had to obtain Bosnian citizenship in order to avoid strict quarantine regulations for Serbian dogs.

Dragosavac’s other two stories address popular issues in contemporary Serbian society, looking at picky Belgrade girls in search of a prince on a white-horse, and the hooligan violence of which he has himself been a victim.

Although Dragosavac’s juicy phrasing may not seem typically  English, he is unique for the way he recognizes the beauty of the small details that make up the mosaic of Belgrade life. He produces sarcastic internal monologues while waiting with a broken jaw for the police to arrive. By giving national attributes to a street dog with whom he shares the burden of getting a visa, he echoes a world that demands an innovative approach.

Dragosavac shows he can depict the finest nuances of hidden social transformations when he writes of how the inner world of young women has been affected by the recent wars.

For the young Sarajevo-born writer Sonja Avlijas, Belgrade is the backdrop to an affair with her lover from Paris. Avlijas is a capable writer with a good future in fiction, but her story did not seem unique to Belgrade. I could easily imagine a similar romance taking place in other places where the differences between the spirit of North-Western and South-Eastern Europe become apparent.

In her story, The Good, the Bad and the Shouldn’t Be Seen, Carolyn Fenn shows how easy it is to be enchanted by Belgrade while turning a blind eye to many of its faults.

Cycling with her husband from Ada to the city centre on an October afternoon, she describes the prejudices foreigners may have towards the city. For instance, the image of unsmiling people is undone when a couple she meets en route returns her smile. It might sound overly simplistic, but it works well.

Very original is a story by Celia K Graham, entitled An Open Letter to the Belongings of which I am now Bereft. Graham, who introduces herself as a very cautious woman, uses sparkling cynicism to tell of how she lost some of her precious belongings in Belgrade.

She describes the city which rid her of her jewellery in terms that are flirtatious and reproachful – as if she were addressing a lover that had stolen her diamond earrings while whispering in her ear.

Carol Kiernan and Paddy O’ Reilly, in their stories Strahinjica Bana Remembers and Ziveli to a Dear Friend, use simple language to outline the city’s geography and emotions. Their work is most likely to interest readers who prefer facts about the city to literature.

In her touching story, Plan for the Day, Ayse Mitchell talks of an elderly woman who lives a quiet life with her husband and dogs, looking forward to ordinary things like the sun on rooftops, the smell of coffee or passing an old family recipe on to her granddaughter.

Writer Prabha Chandra depicts the harsh side of the city in Finding Barbie in Belgrade, which takes her to the Gazela Bridge slums, inhabited by Roma Gypsies, on the day that they were being torn down.

Tuesdays at Two resembles a cookbook where each of the writers had tried a very different spice in the hope that the dish would come out right. If you have the patience to go through the variations in quality among these mainly first-time authors, you might find the book enjoyable.

It is also a good gift to someone eager to know Belgrade from the perspective of an outsider.

The book costs 800 dinars (about €8) and can be purchased in all major bookstores in the city.

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Visit Belgrade - Tips for sightseeing Belgrade

The capital of Serbia, also its largest city, is an inexhaustible source of entertainment and leisure. Belgrade is a lively city, widely known for its nightlife and the numerous attractions that make it one of the most visited in the country. One weekend will be just enough for you to see the most prominent places and get to know its spirit. This is true for tourists and those who live in Belgrade and have never used the opportunity to explore this concrete jungle they call home. Here's a sneak peek of what's to come: 

Belgrade tourist map - Places to visit in Belgrade 

Belgrade nightlife , unique restaurants in belgrade , belgrade landmarks .

Source: © Slobodan Vladisavljević from Getty Images via Canva.com

About Belgrade 

These famous words by a loved Serbian writer and journalist Dusko Radovic best describe the love we have for this glorious city. 

He who was lucky enough to wake up this morning in Belgrade

shouldn’t ask for anything more in life.

More than that would be immodest.

• Belgrade location and how to reach it: Belgrade is the capital of Serbia, situated where the rivers Sava and Danube collide. It’s been blessed with a great position in the world, both weather, and travel-wise. The intersection of European roads E-70 and E-75 makes it easy to reach by bus or car. Belgrade has an airport, named after Nikola Tesla, to which most major airplane companies fly. If you want to keep it cheap, consider Wizzair. 

• Currency in Belgrade: The currency used in Serbia is dinars, which you can get at an exchange office. Paper money in Serbia goes from 10, 20, and 50 dinars to 100, 200, 500, 1.000, 2.000, and 5.000. The value of $1US is around 111 dinars. Exchange offices in Serbia will accept most of the world currencies. 
• Is Belgrade expensive: In 2018 Belgrade was named the cheapest destination to visit, and we guess that tells you all you need to know. Even if you decide to go all out, there's a big chance you won't be spending more than $600-700 for a full week. Admissions to most attractions usually don't go over $5-10, you can get street food for the same amount and a nice meal for less than $15, and accommodation can cost you as little as $30 a day. 

• Demography of Belgrade: By the last census, Belgrade is home to around 1.4 million people, most of them being Serbs. People from all the former Yugoslavian countries live in Belgrade, alongside Roma, Albanians, Slovakians, Germans, Russians, and many others. This array of people and cultures you can see and hear on the street every day is one of the best things about Belgrade.
• Languages spoken in Belgrade: Serbian is the official language of Serbia and Belgrade. Since English is a language taught in schools, Serbians are really good with it. This means you won't have much trouble ordering in a restaurants, visiting grocery stores and shopping centers, museums and attractions offer audio guides in English and sometimes French as well. 

Belgrade is a place where modern and traditional intertwine. Sometimes it feels like a walk through a sci-fi movie, as in the city center, you'll be met with a building obliterated by war and a one-year-old building a few steps after it. That's what makes it charming! Belgrade natives use many landmarks we'll tell you all about as meeting spots. It is difficult to single out only the most important attractions of Belgrade and ignore the others, trust us. So we will do our best to mention the best places to visit in Belgrade and make your weekend richer for one pleasant experience. 

• Knez Mihailova

This city was perhaps best described by Momo Kapor, a famous writer and painter who dedicated numerous works to Belgrade and the Danube. His books are almost a guide through the city. They mention some long-forgotten places, cafes that many enjoyed until wee small hours of the morning, restaurants that served the city's most delicious food, and Knez Mihailova , the eternal place of meetings and farewells. Therefore, this is a perfect start for your Belgrade endeavors - the central city pedestrian zone and the heart of the whole of Belgrade. A lesser-known fact is that it became a pedestrian street only in 1987. However, even during the Austrian, Turkish, and Roman rule, it was of great importance. It has changed over the centuries, mosques, neighborhoods, and even a part of Aleksandar Karadjordevic's garden have been built in it.

Attractions of Knez Mihailova 

For its appearance today, we can thank the urbanist Emilian Josimovic, in whose part a monument was erected at the very entrance. It houses, next to each other, buildings of great historical importance and some of the most visited boutiques and shops. Among the Belgrade famous places you can visit here are:

• The establishment of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts
• Zepter Museum (working hours 10 am - 9 pm)
• Gallery of the Culture Center of Belgrade (working hours 12h - 20h, closed on Sundays)
• Palace of Albania

Knez Mihailova is intersected by smaller streets, which offer equally interesting and colorful sights. You will meet street book and record sellers, musicians, singers, clowns, and other street performers. Once you're done exploring it, you can decide to visit Republic Square on one or Kalemegdan on the opposite side. Whichever way you choose, you won't go wrong.

• Belgrade center - The Republic Square

At the exit from Knez Mihailova Street, the main town square awaits. Today's Republic Square site used to be the Istanbul Gate, a symbol of Serbian life under Turkish rule. The demolition of the gate symbolically destroyed the Ottoman power over the Serbian population. Today, Republic Square is a place to meet and socialize; from here, you can explore the city, its restaurants, and bars. In addition to the famous monument to Prince Mihailo Obrenovic, there are many cultural buildings for which Belgrade has become widely known. Across the Square is the shopping center Staklenac, Press Center Building, and Palace Reunion, as well as numerous cafes, restaurants, and narrow alleys. The buildings of the National Theater and the National Museum stand out for their beauty as well. 

National Theatre in Belgrade 

You will easily recognize the National Theatre by its exquisite architecture. It was built to resemble Milano's Teatro Alla Scala and quickly became the most famous theater in Belgrade. It cultivates a long tradition, which is still preserved today. You can witness opera, ballet, and drama performances while admiring the interior's beauty. The repertoire is displayed on the board at the entrance and on the theater's website. The working hours of the box office are from 11 am to 3 pm on weekdays and Saturdays. Ticket prices depend on the program you want to attend. Visit our page dedicated to the National Theatre to learn more about its rich history, but also how to reach it.

Lovers of good food and booze, historical hotspots, live music, and traditional Serbian charm, you've come to the right place. Not far from Republic Square is Skadarska Street, which managed to preserve most of its appearance from the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. Although it is only 500 meters long, it houses some of Belgrade's legendary taverns, such as Dva Jelena and Tri Sesira. Visits to these taverns will simply transport you. This is where bohemian men and women spent their late nights, and the owners give their best to preserve them today. Skadarlija is an ideal place for dinner and relaxation after a day spent touring the city. Remember that the street is cobbled, so high heels and slippery shoes won't be your allies. 

• Jevremovac Botanical Garden

To put it simply, Jevremovac Botanical Garden represents the lungs of the center of Belgrade. Many rare plant species are preserved in the oldest botanical garden in Serbia, built around 1874. Although it is located almost in the center of the city, between busy streets, such as Takovska and Despot Stefan Boulevard, this area, filled with the most intricate fauna, is almost soundproof. You will not even notice the city's noise and bustle as you walk among nature that stretches over 5 hectares. Within the garden, there is also a Japanese garden, the Institute of Botany, and a greenhouse garden. Jevremovac is open from May 1 to November 1, and the ticket costs a symbolic 300 dinars ($2.6). Don't miss out on the opportunity to buy one of the plant seedlings and thus get one of the most beautiful souvenirs from Belgrade.

• Temple of Saint Sava

This magnificent Temple was built in the place believed to be the burning grounds of Saint Sava's remains. In 1935, the construction of the Temple began. Today, it is known as one of the largest Orthodox churches in Europe and the largest in the Balkans. The interior of the Temple is richly painted, and the crypt is perhaps the most magnificent part of the church. Given that it is one of the most famous Belgrade sights, it is unthinkable not to visit it. Temple of Saint Sava is open daily from 7 am to 8 pm. Remember that clothes for this visit need to cover your shoulders and knees. 

Autor: ©Brusonja from Getty Images via Canva.com

Gardos 

Zemun is a part of Belgrade you mustn't miss. Even more precisely, Gardos . The Danube river is perhaps the most beautiful on this side of the city; the area is quiet and suitable for walks with children. A visit to the Millennium Tower, better known as the Gardos Tower, is worth the effort of reaching. Narrow, cobbled streets surrounded by tiny colorful houses will take you to this historic building. Although the tower was built in 1896, the history of this place dates back to the Neolithic period. You can climb the tower and enjoy the view of the Danube and Belgrade from a completely different angle. Once you conquer Gardos, take a walk along the Zemun quay and sit in one of the restaurants on the river bank that offer the best fish specialties. This is the perfect time to try a famous dish called riblja corba, which is basically a fish stew, sometimes made a bit spicy. 

• Museums in Belgrade

From the ones that preserve the history and tradition of Serbia and the world, that celebrate the beauties of contemporary life, Belgrade has it all. Some newer museums Belgrade has to offer are dedicated to the visual experience, like the Museum of Illusions or the Selfie Museum. For those who want to get to know the spirit and past of Belgrade better, don't miss these: 

• The National Museum: From prehistoric archeological finds, the art of ancient Greek and Roman culture, all the way to works of contemporary art, you can go through the history of humanity in one place. The entrance to the National Museum is free on Sundays, so you can split your visit into two days for the price of one. You will have the opportunity to see some of the works of our most notable Serbian artists, such as Paja Jovanovic, Nadezda Petrovic, Sava Sumanovic. The museum also houses the works of Claude Monet, Paul Gauguin Picasso. The ticket price for adults is only 300 dinars ($2.6), while children, students, and pensioners pay just 150 dinars.

• Museum of Contemporary Art: The modern building of this museum can be seen clearly from Kalemegdan. Typical post-war Yugoslav architecture gives it a special touch, and the interior of the museum is no less stunning. The Museum of Contemporary art was built for this very purpose, to keep the most valuable collections of contemporary art that Serbia possesses. Graphics, drawings, paintings, and sculptures are exhibited on about 5,000 square meters. In addition to the permanent exhibition consisting of works from the XX and XXI, there are frequent guest exhibitions of world-famous artists, such as Marina Abramovic. It is open for visitors every day, except on Tuesdays,  from 12 to 8 pm, and at a price of 600 dinars for adults and 300 for children.
• Nikola Tesla Museum:   the building from the beginning of the 20th century at 51 Krunska Street keeps the legacy of the world's most outstanding scientist on its premises. Personal items, records, letters, drawings, and some of the inventions and working models Nikola Tesla has made are kept safe in this museum. Nikola Tesla Museum is unique because it also houses the urn of Tesla himself. Visit it all for just 400 dinars ($3.5). Admission is free for children up to 7 years old, and the museum's working hours on weekends are from 10 am to 6 pm.

Ada Ciganlija 

If you want you and your children to run freely, play in the grass or ride a bike, Ada Ciganlija is the place to be. If you visit Belgrade in the summer, this so-called sea of Belgrade is where you'll find many activities available, from rollerblading and renting boats to playing in the water. Just some of the things on Ada's rich repertoire are:

• Adrenalin activities: Are you ready to go bungee jumping from a 55-meter-high platform, or maybe try water skiing? That's exactly what you'll find on Ada, alongside an adventure park with obstacle courses, paintball and laser tag, climbing rock walls and even skiing and snowboarding simulations. 
• Sports on Ada: On it's 7km wide shores and 8km of water space you'll find fields for soccer, basketball, volleyball on sand, tennis, baseball, golf, badminton, rugby, as well as kayaking and paddling equipment, tracks for cycling and rollerskating, and an area for fishing. Everything you could possibly need equipment-wise can be rented.

• Belgrade tourist places - Parks in Belgrade

Belgrade has green areas and landscaped parks scattered all over. After visiting all those attractions, we advise you to take a break in one of them, enjoying nature. In addition to protecting you from the sun and crowds, Belgrade parks also have children's playgrounds and numerous monuments and Belgrade sights you ought to see, from famous churches to even more famous Serbian castles (which technically are fortresses but equally fun) 

It is almost impossible to come to Belgrade without walking through the Kalemegdan Fortress and witnessing the most beautiful view of the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. The space is divided into Great and Little Park, with buildings of great historical significance at every step. Spacious green areas with lots of trees, benches, and sculptures are the perfect place to relax and take an easy walk during the weekend. The Belgrade symbol is also located here - the monument The Victor or Pobednik, erected in 1928. You can continue your tour by visiting some of the following buildings:

• Military Museum: This museum has both indoor and outdoor spaces. Displayed in the open are tanks from various countries, torpedoes, and grenades. Inside, however, you can see smaller weapons, ammunition, war equipment, and uniforms used in different periods of the past. Military Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am to 5 pm, and the price of a regular ticket is 350 dinars (around $3).
• The Church of the Rosary and the Church of St. Petka: The environment in which they are located exudes peace, complete with a beautiful view. Weddings often happen here, so don't be surprised if you suddenly get into a crowd and find yourself among the guests. After visiting them, you can descend to the lower part of the tower, located at the foot of Kalemegdan.

Pioneers Park

This park is surrounded by some of the most beautiful state institutions - the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia, the Assembly of the City of Belgrade, and Andricev venac estate. Next to them is also the building of the Main Post Office, which many will agree is the most beautiful academic-style building in Belgrade. Pioneers park itself is of exceptional beauty and is under the protection of the state as an environment of immovable cultural property. It has benches all over, a playground for kids, it's rich with vegetation, and is a great starting point for city center exploration. 

Also located in the city center, this park is a favorite place for Belgrade residents and their pets. Tasmajdan is a family park where old and young, families with children, and proud owners of pets gather. Located right next to King Alexander Boulevard, not far from the Assembly building and the Main Post Office, this park is a real small natural oasis. There is a large fountain and a couple of monuments among the street lights and numerous benches. However, the most essential feature of the park is the Church of St. Marko , made to look like the monastery of Gracanica. You will have the most beautiful view of it if you come from the direction of Resavska Street. 

Karadjordjev Park

After visiting the Temple of Saint Sava, have a stroll through Karadjordjev Park . Although it is located in such a busy spot, this park has periods without big crowds. We know how difficult it is to find a free bench in the park, but here you will usually be able to find a place with a nice view. The park played an important role during the rise of the First Serbian Uprising, and the features of that period are still visible. In addition to many busts, the graves of fallen insurgents are located in this area. This park is excellent if you want to get out of the city crowds or away from other tourists visiting the Temple.

• Famous neighborhoods in Belgrade you cannot miss

The true spirit of Belgrade, modern or old, can best be seen in its diverse borough and neighborhoods. From stunning architecture to exciting attractions, these are the must-see spots in Belgrade:

• To experience the Belgrade of old take a stroll around Dorcol, one of the central neighborhoods that has kept its charm till this very day. This is where you'll find authentic architecture, Skadarlija, and the first-ever kafana in the Balkans.
• Dedinje and Belgrade Waterfront are the regions where the cost of living in Belgrade is the highest. Most luxurious apartments and villas are located there.
• A visit to neighboring boroughs Vracar and Vozdovac is a must if you enjoy rooftop views and can't wait to explore the biggest orthodox temple in the Balkans .
• Follow the rivers Danube and Sava to Zemun and New Belgrade, which have long quays perfect for a sunset walk. New Belgrade is also steadily becoming the business center of Belgrade, while Zemun has kept the rural charms. 

Your exploration of Belgrade will be even easier with the map we have prepared for you - it marks the attractions we recommend you visit. The map allows you to plot your routes, see the distance between all the attractions you want to visit, plan which public transport lines you will use, you name it. Use it to find inspiration and see even the locations we didn't mention!

Things to do in Belgrade 

After only a couple of hours spent in Belgrade, you'll realize how lively it is, from morning to night. Whether you are traveling alone, with a loved one, children, or friends, you can choose activities that are precise to your liking. From exciting tours and shopping to the best nightlife ( and we mean it ), let us take you on a walk through Belgrade activities worth your time. 

Belgrade tours 

Since we went through the most famous attractions of Belgrade, you had the opportunity to make sure that this city hides many beauties. There are different ways to visit Belgrade, see it from different angles, and get to know its rivers or underground passages. Many things can be visited, perhaps by combining the means of transport and tours that are on offer. We will introduce you to some of them, and it is up to you to choose the one that suits you best.

Belgrade walking tour 

If you feel brave enough and want to explore the city on your own, let us give you an idea. You can make a tour yourself that will include everything you want to see, walking, or using public transport. We suggest you follow the route of the blog, visiting Kalemegdan, Knez Mihailova, and The republic square first. Then the National Assembly, the Church of St. Marko, Tasmajdan Park, and the Nikola Tesla Museum. If you go down to Slavija after that, you can continue along Nemanjina to Savski Trg and visit the newly erected Monument of Stefan Nemanja . Branko's Bridge is not far from there, and the promenade underneath it. This promenade is rich with restaurants and bars, plus the views are immaculate. From there, you will quickly return to Kalemegdan and Knez Mihailova, which will complete your tour.

Another way to get to know the city and hear more about it is through organized walking tours. You can schedule a private tour through the center of Belgrade. The tourist guide will take you through the places that are included in the famous boroughs called krug dvojke , named by the tram line that connects them. The tour lasts 4 hours, starting from the meeting spot you choose. The tourist organization of Belgrade also offers walking tours, so be sure to check out the TO Belgrade website . 

Boat tour in Belgrade 

No matter the question, boat tours are always the answer. Boats depart from the Sava port, and it is possible to go on tours in group visits or rent boats for private cruises and celebrations. You will have the opportunity to experience Kalemegdan from another angle, the confluence of two rivers below Avala , Zemun, Staro Sajmiste, all the bridges of Belgrade and Belgrade Waterfront, as well as important religious buildings. If you decide on a trip organized by SerbianAdventure, at the price of 1,800 dinars/15€ you will enjoy an hour and a half of sailing with an audio guide.

Night cruises, events, and cruises completed with a lunch or dinner are organized by the River Skipper cruise agency. The Turtle boat tour is exciting. It was named after its appearance, which resembles a turtle shell. The ship is fully glazed, so prepare for stunning views. The boat also organizes parties on the water you cannot miss. Rivers in Serbia is the theme of our blog, so be sure to check it out before going on a Belgrade boat tour. 

Belgrade below Belgrade

This is perhaps one of the most exciting tours you will come across in Belgrade. Belgrade hides many tunnels, underground corridors, and passages from different past periods, worth getting acquainted with. On Saturdays and Sundays, from 3.30 pm, tours are organized for 990 dinars/10€. You will visit the Roman Well, the Military Bunker, and the Great Gunpowder Warehouse. After the two-and-a-half-hour tour, you can enjoy wine tasting and socialize with other visitors. The tour starts from Kalemegdan. 

• Activities with kids in Belgrade

Children in Belgrade won't feel left out. There are many activities for children, and we do not doubt that adults will also enjoy them. Some of the already mentioned places will be ideal for your little ones to play, take a walk and discover something new. Some of the following locations will encourage children to play and explore.

• Dino Park:  Within the Kalemegdan Fortress, there is also Dino Park , known as Jurassic Adventure. This is the perfect opportunity to see 35 dinosaur replicas in one place. They are up to 15 meters high, and it is possible to climb some of them. The park is located near the Partizan Basketball Club; it is open from 10 am to 10 am, and the ticket price for children is 250 dinars, while for adults, it is 350 dinars. Take the opportunity from April to December and show your little ones what the biggest animals that once walked the Earth looked like.

• Belgrade Zoo : The zoo is located on the edge of Kalemegdan. The kids will love it! From tigers and lions to penguins and seals, you can see more than 200 animal species from five continents in one place. Belgrade Zoo is home to the oldest alligator currently in the world, and a couple of statues dedicated to its most famous animal residents. The ticket price is 550 dinars for adults and 350 dinars for kids under 15.
• Museum of Science and Technology :This museum is adapted for children of all ages. Toddlers can have fun in the toy gallery, try some of the exhibits in the science playroom and get to know the way of life in the past. Together, you will learn interesting facts about the most exciting developments in science and technology. The museum is open from 10 am to 6 pm; the price of a regular ticket is 200 dinars for adults, admission is free for children under 7, and a family ticket is 500 dinars.
• Shopping in Belgrade

Here's the deal - people of Belgrade love to shop. That's why you won't have any problems finding anything from a needle to a locomotive, as Serb would say. Belgrade is blooming in shopping spots, such as malls and smaller boutiques. Shopping centers carry domestic brands alongside world-famous brands such as Massimo Dutti and Ecco. It is superfluous to mention that Knez Mihailova Street is unavoidable for tourists, as well as for many residents of Belgrade, who want to treat themselves to a beautiful piece of clothing, jewelry, or skincare products. Here is what you need to know: 

• Shopping in Knez Mihailova: The highlight of the shopping experience in Knez Mihailova, however, is the Rajiceva Shopping Center, which offers its visitors the opportunity to visit numerous luxury stores and buy elegant shoes. After touring stores like Levi's, Galileo, and Calvin Klein, you can take a break at Starbucks. There is also a large underground parking lot in the shopping center, so you don't have to worry about your car.
• Belgrade shopping centers: The most visited shopping centers can be found in New Belgrade - Delta City and Usce shopping center. Next to Ada Ciganlija is Ada mall, which has a nice view from the roof bars. BEO shopping Center and Big shopping center are also great, as you will leave the city center to reach them. All of these malls have stores such as Mona, Pull & Bear, Tom Taylor, Zara and Bershka. You can also enjoy an afternoon lunch or coffee in one of the restaurants, or catch a movie in Cineplexx theaters. 

Is Belgrade the party capital of the world? We like to think so. You will love Belgrade at night if you don't mind starting late. On weekends, most bars and pubs are still going at 1 am, while clubs are open almost until dawn; parties that last until 4 or 5 in the morning are something you need to witness. If good nightlife is what you seek, give our blog about cities with the best nightlife a read. From nightclubs in the heart of the city to party rafts on the Sava and a bohemian borough, we'll tell you all about the best party spots in Belgrade.

• Pubs: If you are a fan of quality kraft beer, you will be happy to read that many pubs in Belgrade offer world-famous but also domestic kraft beers. Most pubs are equipped as traditional English pubs, making the whole experience even better. It's hard to make a selection, but by personal choice, pubs like Just Beer, Zero Five - 0.5, Gunners Pub, and Green Mill serve great kraft beers. Best of all, each is located in the center of Belgrade, so you won't have to go far from Republic Square to visit them.

• Bars: If you are looking for a place that serves delicious and quality cocktails, stick to Dorcol and Vracar. Here you can find a handful of bars that will satisfy your every wish and serve unforgettable cocktails. Some of them are D Bar, Endorphin, and Culture Bar. The offer is colorful, and the staff is professional, smiling, and very helpful. Music in these bars is also great, following the theme of the bar and the top hits. Bars and cafes with a slightly more relaxed atmosphere are located in Cetinjska Street, a popular place among the youth. You can sit down for a beer in Zaokret, Sprat, Polet, Zgezen Golub, or many other bars in that circle.
• Rafts: The best night parties and matinee parties are organized on the rafts, clubs on the water are active during the summer months. More alternative options are Šlep and Zappa Barka. Popular among locals are Port by Community, Freestyler and Port stand out. However, keep in mind that the prices of drinks on party rafts are higher than in other places, so have extra money with you.

Places to eat in Belgrade 

By now, you have already acquainted with Belgrade's sights and its most-visited parts. Now it's time to move on to the gourmet part of the trip. The best restaurants in Belgrade are on this list; it's up to you to choose the type of food you want to eat. 

Local cuisine restaurants in Belgrade 

Cooked dishes, meat, barbecue, homemade pies, and sweets, is there anything better than tasting the tradition at the very center of Belgrade. If that is what you seek, check out: 

• Dva Jelena: This place of stunning appearance combines the tradition of old times and elegance. Sitting in a pleasant ambiance, at a table with checkered tablecloths, you can enjoy the best specialties of local cuisine. And all that, of course, with a glass of good wine while tambourines play next to you. Dva Jelena is a restaurant with a 100-year-old tradition, still preserving the tastes and smells of the past.

• Klub knjizevnika (Writer's Club): Another restaurant that has been a meeting place for many artists and eminent personalities of Belgrade is the Writer's Club. It still gathers locals who have remained faithful to this iconic Belgrade landmark. It is an elegant restaurant with a wide range of dishes chosen by the head chef and owner of the restaurant, Branko Kisic. In addition to a tasty menu, you can also enjoy a glass of quality wine.
• Grmec: Another pearl of Serbian cuisine in the center of Belgrade. Like many cafes and restaurants in this part of the city, Grmec was the central place of local bohemians. Their photos are hung on the restaurant's walls, so together with the red-checkered tablecloths, they evoke the spirit of bohemian life. You can eat the best sarma or beans in this restaurant, just like our mothers prepared it. If you are a fan of brandy, you should not miss the opportunity to try it right here. And for dessert, our recommendation is to order baklava, you will not regret it.

• Italian restaurants in Belgrade

Since it is one of the most famous cuisines in the world, it is not surprising that many Italian restaurants have opened in Belgrade. Authentic Italian dishes with the inevitable parmesan are waiting for you in several places in the city center.

• Eatalian: A restaurant with an enticing name and an even more enticing menu. This restaurant was opened by an Italian living in Belgrade with his family for many years. He brought the authentic tastes of his country from Italy to Belgrade so that you can try some of the most beautiful pasta, risotto, and even a traditional Italian breakfast. You will also have the opportunity to buy some Italian products in the on-site restaurant. The restaurant is located in Gospodar Jevremova Street, in Dorcol.
• Ottimo: Another great Italian restaurant awaits you in Dorcol. You can try Italian dishes from antipasti to an excellent dessert in this restaurant. Ottimo is also located in a great spot, on Student Square, across from the Student Park. Don't miss out on the great wine as well. 

This section of the blog is dedicated to restaurants with the most pleasant ambiance. If you are looking for a beautiful and elegant restaurant in Belgrade where you will spend a romantic evening with a loved one, follow our recommendation.

• Kalemegdan Terrace: Located in the most beautiful place in the city, the restaurant Kalemegdan Terrace will provide you with an unforgettable dining experience and a view from the fortress. It serves specialties of local and foreign cuisines, and the experience is completed by friendly staff and a panorama of Belgrade. Kalemegdan Terrace is among the more luxurious restaurants, so be prepared for prices that follow the top-notch service.
• Little Bay: This Dorcol restaurant is dedicated to classical music. There are portraits of classical music composers on the walls, and the whole place exudes style and elegance. Along with a delicious dinner, you will also enjoy the music coming from the piano. The baroque interior will make you breathless, and the food on the menu will satisfy your senses.
• Frans Restaurant: This legendary restaurant is located in the part of Belgrade called Autokomanda, so you can easily reach it from the city center. It was opened 38 years ago and still captivates with its beauty and elegance. The restaurant is known primarily for its large garden, which looks like a green oasis. The restaurant's interior is equally stunning, and the entire Frans leaves the impression of that elegant Belgrade you have heard stories about.

Accommodation in Belgrade

As expected, the most visited city in Serbia offers the widest selection of accommodation. Whether you are just looking for a place to stay overnight or a comfortable hotel room, a huge array of hotels, hostels, private accommodation units, and apartments awaits you. 

• Apartments in Belgrade

Belgrade is big on day-to-day accommodations, so you can rent a place for only one night if that is what you please. This is a great weekend choice no matter how you travel, alone, with family, friends, or a partner. Apartments in Belgrade are equipped with the necessary appliances, extra towels, and tools that will make your stay as comfortable as possible. Although they depend on size, appearance, and location, the rental prices of the apartments are primarily affordable. You can find accommodation for only $20-30 a day.

• Hotels in Belgrade

If you are looking for something more formal accommodation, where you will be able to order room service or have breakfast, hotels are the way to go. What is also important when choosing a hotel is the location. You must be well connected to the city center and the most famous attractions, as well as public transport that can take you sightseeing. If you want to experience old Belgrade and its tradition, we suggest Hotel Moskva or Hotel Majestic. The service is immaculate, and you can expect to find rooms for around $100 a night. 

Cheaper options would be Hotel Belgrade and Central Park Residence, which are still located in the city center, but offer accommodation for less than $50 a night. Don't miss out on all the discounts that come with booking online. 

As you could see, Belgrade has something for everyone. Spring, autumn, and even winter will be the perfect period to visit our capital. This city is hospitable and especially attentive to visitors, so you can expect excellent service and openness of citizens to help you at all times. Who knows, maybe on your way through Belgrade you will meet people with whom you will be friends for the rest of your life. But also don't stop there! Explore Serbia with our blog which tells you all you need to know before visiting. 

Table of Contents

• About Belgrade 
• National Theatre in Belgrade 
• Ada Ciganlija 
• Belgrade tourist map - Places to visit in Belgrade 
• Belgrade tours 
• Belgrade nightlife 
• Local cuisine restaurants in Belgrade 
• Unique restaurants in Belgrade 

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Hyderabad’s Write Club brings together writers of all ages and genres

Write club founded by sravanthi talluri has published four anthologies and held nearly 600 meet-ups in the last nine years.

Published - July 05, 2024 02:45 pm IST

Participants at a ‘Write Club’ meet-up at Aaromale, Film Nagar in Hyderabad. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

On a breezy Saturday afternoon, a group of 30 writers, ranging in age from 10 to 68, gather at Aaromale in Film Nagar for the biweekly meet-up of Write Club Hyderabad, the largest community for and by writers in the city. Between 2pm and 5pm, the writers go through a short warm-up exercise and a longer writing sessionon a pre-decided theme and finally read their work aloud before closing the session with a collective peer review.

Thirty-three-year-old Sravanthi Talluri founded the club on a similar Saturday afternoon in 2015 at Lamakaan in Banjara Hills. What started that day as a gathering of 9-10 people has now become a haven for writers across the city. “We aimed to facilitate a writer’s journey by creating a supportive and symbiotic community. In nine years, the writers who first joined us at their nascent stages are now published authors,” she says.

So far the club has had nearly 600 meet-ups and published four anthologies — Of Blood and Ink , Encounters, 3 PM Tales , and The Lamp-Lit Parchments — which include stories written by the participants over the years. They have also hosted writing workshops for children and participated in the Hyderabad Literary Festival’s 2022 edition.

Later, Aditya Undru, Shiv Bansal, and P Sai Tej Kumar joined the club as organisers.Sravanthi says that their outreach relies on word-of-mouth or social media announcements. “Now more people know about the club due to our club’s presence on Instagram. Hyderabad is a city of culture with an abundance of writers always looking for stimulating activities. Most of our participants help spread the word about the club. There is no registration fee or profits of any kind ; writers can simply walk in and join the community with no restrictions on age, language, or writing format,” she adds.

Professional writer Shiv Bansal who has been associated with the club since 2017 recalls, “When I started writing, I had no academic background or training and I was desperately searching for a community of writers. I honed my skills and got writing opportunities through this club. It helped me build my career and now, as one of the organisers, I wish to aid other aspiring writers kickstart their journeys.”

Collaborative community

Apart from providing a platform to hone one’s writing skills, the club also serves as a community for those who feel lonely in their craft. “Participants review each other’s work, with no singular feedback or judgment imposed, which distinguishes the club from a traditional class. It is a self-sustained community which allows for open dialogue, helping writers break out of their creative blocks or any other hurdles they struggle with,” says Sravanthi, emphasises the club’s collaborative role.

Twenty-three-year-old software engineer Bhargavi, who has been a regular at the club for over a year, emphasises that the club brings together writers of different genres, including students, screenwriters, journalists, copywriters, or anyone employed in a different industry but passionate about writing. “Writing amid 30 other writers who not only come from diverse backgrounds but also approach the craft very differently helps you transcend your peripheral vision about your own work and the art of the writing itself,” she says.

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The Hindu MetroPlus / Hyderabad

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Crossbow attacker wounds a police officer guarding Israel's embassy in Serbia before being shot dead

Associated Press

Copyright 2024 The Associated Press. All rights reserved

Police officers block off traffic at an intersection close to the Israeli embassy in Belgrade, Serbia, Saturday, June 29, 2024. An attacker with a crossbow has wounded a Serbian police officer guarding the Israeli Embassy in Belgrade. Serbias interior ministry says the officer responded by fatally shooting the assailant. (AP Photo/Marko Drobnjakovic)

BELGRADE – An attacker with a crossbow wounded a Serbian police officer guarding the Israeli Embassy in Belgrade on Saturday, Serbia’s Interior Ministry said. The officer responded by fatally shooting the assailant.

Both Serbian and Israeli officials said initial indications pointed to terrorism as a motive.

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Interior Minister Ivica Dacic said in a statement that the attacker fired a bolt at the officer, hitting him in the neck. He said the officer then "used a weapon in self-defense to shoot the attacker, who died as a result of his injuries.”

The policeman was conscious when he was transported to Belgrade's main emergency hospital and underwent an operation to remove the bolt from his neck. Hospital officials said he was stable after surgery.

Serbia’s populist President Aleksandar Vucic visited the wounded officer in the hospital, promising a sweeping crackdown against “terrorists.”

“We are hunting them down,” he said. “We will have no mercy for terrorism in Serbia.”

A spokesman with the Israeli Ministry of Foreign Affairs said that “today there was an attempted terrorist attack in the vicinity of the Israeli Embassy in Belgrade.” The spokesman said the embassy is closed and no employee of the embassy was injured.

Israel’s ambassador to Belgrade, Yahel Vilan, said he was deeply shocked “by the terrorist attack” in front of the embassy.

He expressed gratitude for the Serbian police officer “who courageously prevented the attack” and said he is “convinced that the investigation by the competent authorities of this shameful attack will identify all responsible persons and further contribute to the preservation of Serbia as a safe country.”

Minister Dacic told reporters that an investigation was ongoing, but “there are now all indications that the motives relate to terrorism. Because there is no other motive why someone would attack a gendarme outside the Israeli Embassy.”

Dacic identified the attacker as a 25-year-old Serb who converted to Islam. Police are investigating his possible network and ties with foreign terrorist groups after another person was arrested near the scene of the shooting, he added.

“There are indications that those are individuals already known to the security services … the Wahhabi movement,” said Dacic, referring to the hard-line Islamist movement.

Authorities raised the security alert in Belgrade, including for foreign embassies and government buildings but also public places such as shopping malls and other busy areas.

Israel's embassy is located not far from the U.S. Embassy in an upscale Belgrade district. It is guarded by an elite police unit with officers armed with automatic weapons.

Serbia has maintained close relations with Israel during the war in Gaza.

Associated Press writer Jovana Gec contributed to this report.

Copyright 2024 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.

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Reflections on Being Fat in a Thin World

As a comedy writer for shows like The Late Late Show with James Corden , Ian Karmel spent most of his life making fun of his weight, starting at a very young age. His new memoir is called T-Shirt Swim Club: Stories of Being Fat in a World of Thin People. It chronicles how he used comedy to cope growing up, and now that he's lost hundreds of pounds, what he's discovered about himself and society. Also, David Bianculli reviews season three of The Bear .

New Jersey Does Not Renew Trump Liquor Licenses In Wake Of Felony Conviction

The state issued interim licenses and scheduled a hearing for two clubs to prove they still qualify to serve alcohol.

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The state of New Jersey has schedule a hearing on the renewal of liquor licenses at two of Donald Trump's golf clubs in the state.

T he New Jersey Division of Alcoholic Beverage Control decided against renewing liquor licenses at two of Donald Trump’s golf clubs in the state, following his conviction on 34 felony charges in May.

Licenses at Trump’s clubs in Bedminster and Colts Neck are due to expire on Sunday. The clubs applied for renewal in late May. Rather than approving those applications, though, the state issued “‘miscellaneous ad interim permits’ allowing the facilities to continue serving alcohol until a hearing on the renewals is held,” according to a spokesperson for New Jersey’s attorney general.

That hearing is scheduled for July 19 in Trenton, eight days after Trump’s sentencing in the New York felony case. Each club will be required to prove “by a preponderance of evidence that it is qualified to hold a liquor license.” According to state law, the ABC’s director has substantial discretion in reaching a decision.

Local authorities renewed the license at a third Trump golf club in the Philadelphia suburbs of New Jersey earlier this month. That club holds a different category of license.

New Jersey law suggests someone in Trump’s shoes might not be able to hold a license. “No license of any class shall be issued to any person under the age of 18 years or to any person who has been convicted of a crime involving moral turpitude,” one statute declares. A state handbook explains that those sorts of crimes typically involve “dishonesty, fraud or depravity” severe enough to typically be punishable by more than a year in prison. In letters sent to the clubs on Friday, the state’s top alcohol regulator wrote that her agency has “become aware of various public records containing facts that raise concerns as to whether this licensee remains qualified.”

According to a spokesperson for the attorney general’s office, “A final judgment of conviction that raises the prospect of disqualifying Mr. Trump from an interest in a New Jersey liquor license due to the guilty verdict in New York will not be entered until after his sentencing, currently scheduled for July 11.”

While the Trump Organization has maintained that the former president is not connected with the liquor licenses, the state of New Jersey disagrees. “Trump maintains a direct beneficial interest in the three liquor licenses through the receipt of revenues and profits from them, as the sole beneficiary of the Donald J. Trump Revocable Trust,” the spokesperson said.

New Jersey is taking a different approach than some other states where Trump sells alcohol. California, for example, also can revoke liquor licenses if the holder violates “any law prohibiting conduct involving moral turpitude.” But a spokesperson for that state said that because Trump transferred the license for his Los Angeles-area golf club to Don Jr. in 2017, the former president is no longer considered part of the license, even though he is the sole beneficiary of the business that holds it.

Representatives of alcohol authorities in New York , Virginia , Illinois and North Carolina also told Forbes earlier this month that Trump is not a current licensee in their states. After Forbes pointed out that Trump, through a series of entities, is the sole owner of nine businesses with liquor licenses in those locations, some representatives said they would look into the matter further. Others did not respond. Trump-owned companies also hold liquor licenses in Florida and Las Vegas.

Earlier this month, Forbes reported that Trump is the sole beneficial owner of the clubs , via a chain of businesses and his irrevocable trust.

A spokesperson for Trump’s campaign referred an inquiry to the Trump Organization. Representatives of Trump’s business did not immediately respond to a request for comment. The clubs are required to submit any evidence and legal briefs by July 11.

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Meet the translator turning American readers on to Latin American superstars

Are you an English-language reader of Latin American literature? Meet Megan McDowell, a translator working with literary stars.

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Good morning and welcome to the L.A. Times Book Club newsletter.

I’m Jim Ruland, a novelist and punk historian, and although I’m currently on vacation in Colombia, book lovers never take a holiday from reading! That’s why this week’s edition is focused on Latin American literature in translation.

Colombia’s most famous writer is Gabriel Garcia Marquez, whose 1967 masterpiece of magical realism, “One Hundred Years of Solitude,” helped foster an era known as the Latin American Boom that saw the rise of authors like Argentina’s Julio Cortázar, Mexico’s Carlos Fuentes and Peru’s Mario Vargas Llosa.

Now we’re seeing another surge of brilliant writing from Latin America, led by women authors tackling their countries’ dark histories of political and sexual violence. Much of it is being translated by one person.

Meet Megan McDowell. She has won the National Book Award for Translated Literature, the English PEN awards, two O. Henry Prizes and an Award in Literature from the American Academy of Arts and Letters. Just this year, she’s worked on a new edition of Alejandro Zambra’s short story collection “My Documents,” the first unabridged English translation of José Donoso’s “The Obscene Bird of Night” and Mariana Enriquez’s upcoming collection of short stories “A Sunny Place for Shady People.”

I reached out to McDowell to discuss her process and thoughts on translating.

You have long relationships with many of the writers you work with, and sometimes you see the work before it’s even published in Spanish. That must be a tremendous asset.

That’s happening more and more. With Alejandro Zambra I often see drafts of what he’s working on long before I start translating, and I always feel honored that he wants my input. I do think it helps for me to be involved earlier, because I can see the process, talk to the writers about what they’re doing, ask questions. The more collaborative it is, the better.

What’s your advice for English-language readers tackling your unabridged translation of “The Obscene Bird of Night?”

Be open to the experience. Don’t expect the different parts to fit together on a totally logical level — they do fit together, but in a nightmarish, intuitive way. Being an active reader with this novel means letting yourself be carried along on its current and being open to feeling what it inspires you to feel.

How do you approach a novel that is long, labyrinthine and grotesque but is much loved for being all of those things?

I wanted to get to know [Donoso], and two works were very helpful in that: Cecilia García-Huidobro’s collection of his diaries, and the absolutely stunning biography that his daughter Pilar wrote, called “Correr el tupido velo.” I wanted to get the most complete image of him as a person — he was a man full of contradictions who wore a lot of masks, and understanding that about him helped me move through the book a little better, since there’s a lot about this novel that’s tied to his own biography.

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It’s a colossus of Latin American literature, and I can see its influence on another vast, sprawling novel that you translated, Mariana Enriquez’s “Our Share of Night,” which was a finalist for the 2022 L.A. Times Book Prize . Do you see any similarities?

Absolutely, and Mariana herself has cited it as an influence, along with Ernesto Sabato’s “On Heroes and Tombs.” They both deal with dominant classes in Latin America who exert their power over people’s bodies and land with impunity. She also mentions the novel’s focus on monstrosity and decadence, which clearly apply to “Our Share of Night” as well. Both Donoso and Enriquez are writers who are unafraid to look demons — their own and society’s — in the face.

You’ve also translated a new collection of Enriquez’s stories. What can we expect from her new work?

Among other things, you’ll get a seedy hotel haunted by a girl who drowned in its water tank, bird-women and disappearing faces, a sinister small-town artist named Yolk, cursed designer clothes, a girl who loves to have sex with ghosts, a woman who sees the spirits of those who’ve died violently in her neighborhood, and polite little boys with all-black eyes who run like spiders.

You had me at “drowned in a water tank”! Was Elisa Lam’s mysterious death at L.A.’s Hotel Cecil an inspiration?

Yes, that story (the title story) does have to do with Elisa Lam’s case — the main character returns to L.A. after a long time away to investigate a cult trying to channel Elisa’s ghost on the Cecil’s roof.

Can you tell us what else you’re got in the pipeline?

Later this year, there’s Alejandro’s moving and endearing collection of stories and essays about fatherhood and son-hood, “Childish Literature” (Viking). Then there’s Samanta [Schweblin’s] new story collection, which will be called “First We Fall, Then We Feel” (Knopf). It is truly stunning. New Directions will be publishing my translation of Juan Emar’s short stories, “Ten.” Emar is a hilarious surrealist writer with a cult following in Chile, and “Ten” is from the 1930s but feels timeless. Then there’s another book by José Donoso called “The Mysterious Disappearance of the Marquise of Loria,” also with New Directions, which I’m working on now.

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Recent, new and forthcoming books with a Colombian connection

“Until August,” Gabriel García Marquez’s incomplete novel, was published in March, but not everyone is happy about it , including — presumably — its late author.

“Hombrecito” by Santiago Jose Sanchez, a coming-of-age story set in Colombia and the United States, was published earlier this week. You can read an excerpt at LitHub : “Mountains border the city on all sides. Their peaks slice open the clouds blown in from the Amazon and the Pacific, staining the city brown with rain.”

“Pink Slime” by Fernanda Trías, translated by Heather Cleary, hits the shelves next week and early reviews are oozing with praise: “ Set in a dystopian port city in which the fish have died and birds have gone extinct, Trías’s novel is textured by sharp, bloodied images .”

Maria Ospina’s “Variations on the Body,” also translated by Cleary, consists of “ six subtly connected stories ” about the lives of women in contemporary Bogotá.

The Week(s) in Books

Paula L. Woods talks to five mystery writers about what they’re reading and writing. Can you guess who’s revisiting Marquez’s “One Hundred Years of Solitude” this summer?

Mike Madrid considers the political implications of the Latino vote — and what everyone gets wrong about it — in his forthcoming book “The Latino Century: How America’s Largest Minority Is Transforming Democracy.”

Jessica Ferri reviews Rachel Cusk’s new novel, “Parade ,” which explores “the total destruction of the female self through art, inspired by real artists such as Louise Bourgeois and Paula Modersohn-Becker.”

Raha Rafii unpacks Cody Delistraty’s hybrid memoir “The Grief Cure: Looking for the End of Loss.” “What is most striking is the loneliness of Delistraty’s journey, and his seeming faith in the products of the very capitalist systems, such as the tech industry, that have standardized such loneliness.”

Latin American writers in the L.A. Times

Lisa Alvarez offers a reading guide to the life and work of Gabriel García Marquez. Her advice? “ Start with the stories .”

Alejandro Zambra discusses the influence of Roberto Bolaño on his work with Dorany Pineda.

“I think of the novel as one of those people who visits you and you fill their glass every once in a while so they’ll never leave.”

The Times reviewed Samanta Schweblin’s novel “ Little Eyes ” in 2020 and her debut novel, “ Fever Dream, ” in 2017. Both of these eerie and unsettling books were translated by Megan McDowell and the latter has been made into a feature film.

Carolina A. Miranda explores Benjamín Labatut’s obsession with the color blue : “ ‘When We Cease to Understand the World’ is inspired by scientific history, but it is not a straight historical account. It is a novel.”

Thanks for reading! I’ll be back in two weeks with some books about baseball — just in time for the MLB All-Star break.

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The writer and director, famous for making theatergoers squirm in their seats, says he feels most at home wherever the outsiders gather in his native city.

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